Saturday, May 7, 2011

a fun day and a sudden rush

Today in Casa de Libros I was reading the synopsis of whatever that book is by Stephen King about the dome that appears and traps a town. Being in the bookstore brought on an odd realization, a sensation. I think it was the combination of the familiar bookstore and book smells, the seeing books by authors I'd read translated on the tables, the sudden surge of memories of being in bookstores in America and how similar they really all are, all such professional bookstores. As you can see by that grammatically unparallel and confusing sentence, I don't know exactly why I sudden realized it, but realize it I did.

I think I'm going to have more culture shock coming home than coming here. It didn't take me long to figure out why. See, all our lives we've learned about other cultures. In that way we are half-prepared to experience them. We already have a view established when we approach, interact, or integrate (temporarily) with other cultures. Of course there is some shock, but we're ready for it. We have already experienced bits of it during the learning process, the pre-engagement with the culture.

All our lives we've learned supplementals about our own culture, too, but it's different. It's ours. It's fed into our cultural identities, not into a box in the brain apart. And that's just superficial; really what we learn about our culture is unimportant. We learn our culture through living it, we are our culture.

Cue study abroad: minor culture shock, at least in the case of an American going to Spain. Maybe it's not even really culture "shock". We always know we're going to go back to our culture. Over the semester we spend hours in quick laughing sentences like, "They'd never let us sit at this table so long in an American restaurant" and sometimes longer discussions of cultural differences.

Cue going home. Here's where the real shock begins. We've spent who knows how long building a real concept of a foreign culture. Not living it like we lived and learned our own culture, but not learning it in a book, either - somewhere in between. We return to our cultures with these new concepts in tow: a fully developed, quasi-real concept of a foreign culture. Suddenly we're living our normal lives - but with a completely new frame of reference, a completely different lived life to compare our normal lives to. We find ourselves continuing to compare, but this time our own culture seems the "victim" of the comparative study. It's the "new" and the new culture is the referent. We've been turned around on our heads, and our heads have been turned around on us, our eyes turned around on us.

I put Stephen King back on the shelf and had this intense realization. It was an uncomfortable one. For a moment I had transplanted myself to a bookstore in the US, looking back at Sevilla, instead of the other way around. I'd realized that the culture I love so much and will be happy to return to, the culture that is a great percentage of my identity, is never going to be quite the same.

At least, not at first. I also understand that the comparisons will rapidly fade away. They'll be strongest at first but dwindle until maybe every once in a while the feeling of cultural limbo, uncertainty, self-doubt, will return with some new reflection on a concrete difference. But they will be passing moments, and will certainly not define me or my culture. I'll just cast around for a moment, lost in a familiar bookstore.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

I fell into a canal!

Not really. C'mon, I'm not that klutzy.

But I spent lots and lots of time beside canals and walking on bridges over canals and riding on ACTV public transport up and down canals and also lots of time on the lagoon or whatever you call the water between the islands of Lido, Burano, Murano, Torcello, etc.

Canals are charming! Venice is charming despite its utter drenchedness in tourists and -ism! We had lovely weather with no rain, mostly sun, a nice burn on my face, chilly at night and in canal wind but otherwise fine.

I'm looking forward to figuring out how much money I spent... pretty much every penny worth it, especially the 32 euro on two day passes for the waterbuses... that was like a tourist attraction/fun activity in and of itself.

Our hostel. It was like a hotel, I am serious. It had a minifridge, an electric kettle, a huge bathroom and huge bedroom, was spotless, and had endless hot water. Staying here made me realize that I never want to stay in less. We'll see! And the best part was that it was located centrally in a random house, not in a noisy hostel environment - it was on its own and it felt more like living like a real person, not in a hotel.

The door to our building (we were up on the third floor).

A little corner right by our door.

Right outside our door to the right a bit... Venice, Venice, Venice, you are amazing.
A plaza, or if I remember correctly, a campo.

The main street right around the corner from our hostel room. Lots of tourist stands, lots of cafes and restaurants, clothing stores, purse stores, PASTRY STORES.

A bell tower nearby.


:)

You guys know me, I need to take pictures of interesting graffiti.

A building on the edge of a plaza. I liked the lone guy up there.

FOR DONNA! I'm sure everyone walking by was like, What is that crazy American taking a picture of an athletics store for?

View from the Rialto bridge, classic.

More Rialto. Packed with tourists.

More Rialto.
And below we have a video taken from the Rialto!
View down the center of the Rialto, there are shops lining it.

View from northern side of the Rialto, less classic, more calm. We lived a little bit upcanal.

I really loved the architecture here.

And, I mean, the canals.


View from a newish bridge near to St. Mark's Square. Check out someone's private little garden there.

Looking north (upcurrent) from the bridge. Wow, I haven't used the word upcurrent in years.

And looking downcurrent, towards St. Mark's Square.


A young hipster sketching.
Shadowy canals.

Breaking into St Mark's Square from the western edge. I must say, my first view was unimpressive. It was just a biggish plaza.

It got a bit more impressive. That's the basilica and the tower.

Never got around to going in, but I did walk in part of the way. Pretty cool.



This is where it got impressive. Looking east along the southern rim of Venice, right off St. Mark's Square.

Looking west.

Looking south... I hope I've got all these directions rights. I mean, this is the bottom of Venice. Okay, fine, I'll doublecheck. ... Dude, I've got it nailed. I navigated the entire time I was in Venice (Katie isn't so much a navigatress :P) and never got us lost. This is south.

View back towards the tower, facing north-north-west... okay, just showing off now.

Take that, history. And since there's no gap between this picture and the following video (thanks, Blogger): it's sitting looking south by those gondolas.
The edge of the Doge's palace, pretty rich guy.

And here's where I started wandering off the tourist route and into the little streets going who knows where. Just wandering. It's safe to wander in Venice because you're always just gonna end up hitting water.

yeah my cigarette litter fetish comin' out here

I wandered by this school (could hear the children at recess right on the other side of this wall). You can't make this stuff up. Just like in Morocco.

Breaking out of the little streets into another plaza.

sorry, nice try, still a mullet

Waiting for Katie under "the new bridge", is what the receptionist at the hostel called it. Couldn't quite tell whether she was happy about it or not.

This is from that new bridge. This is all right beside the bus station where who knows how many people every day get dropped off to work or tour.

View north-east from the new bridge. This was one of my first views of Venice.

Finally sitting down for lunch (three different pizzas that we SCARFED) at like 5 pm. One was with mussels, one was with bits of some ham, one was four cheese.

St. Mark's Square at night.


Lookin' south again over some darn dark water.



Our bright and early morning, 100% worth getting up at 7.
Inside the Doge's palace (that rich guy). This is the big central patio, really beautiful.

find the face



Dude kilt a dragon. The dude on the other column (with the lion.)
Video inside the patio at the Doge's palace.



Katie makes a speech to all her subjects!

Creepy view from a closed bridge (part of the Doge's palace), they can't see us...

First waterbus ride, so excited!

ON THE WATERBUS


what is with wind on boats please


First stop: Torcello, my favorite. It was tiny. Basically a little green countrysidey island with like ten buildings total, maybe two of which were private homes.

And lots of stray and not stray cats. Hard to tell the difference. Except when one is missing an ear and growls at you.

Katie mailing her postcards, a better friend than I am ...

Looking into innercity Torcello.

Looking back the way we'd come, toward Venice.

I loved this island because it was peaceful. It was green, and quiet, and just... calm. There were tourists, but not too many, not loud. It was beautiful.

The basilica, which we didn't go in because you had to pay. But we went into the church next door, which was probably my favorite church ever. It was small, stone, high-ceilinged, and just had this old, old feeling. Reverent and old.

I think this is a defunct statue garden.

If you keep walking past the church and the buildings you find the private boat dock of Torcello residents.

Braille map of Venice.

These things don't even look domesticated. I kind of think they are actually some non-domesticated species.

Quick little Torcello video.



fun to imagine living here


Waiting for the waterbus.


Burano! The city famous for its many-colored houses, and also for its embroidery style. I loved some of the embroidered-crochet-looking shirts I say, but they were all more than 100 euro.

To be honest Burano kind of creeped me out. There just weren't many non-tourists walking around. If you left the main tourist path it was too quiet.

We bought sweets here... I want to go back and get more!


Now we're on Murano, the island famous for its glass.


This is the wall surrounding a school. Why the barbed wire?

We decided to take a night cruise up and down the grand canal.

And here's the Rialto bridge.





I was so excited to go up the tower. We got up nice and early and were the first ones in line when it opened! Half an hour later there was a huge line. We're good planners.




Looking southwest.


The two columns with the lion and the dragonkiller guy (forgive my laziness, I'm not going to look up their historical significance). The spot where I was sitting/took a video.





I just love love love towers and heights.
YAY for craptastic panoramas. Clicky.

The cemetery (an island).


On Murano, waiting for the free glass demonstration! It was really fast but REALLY nifty. Seeing glass manipulated is kinda crazy.

It took him like two minutes to make a glass horse, but obviously years of training too.

Our fruitless search for wifi that Katie's phone could access. She figured it out once I had left Venice... but it's okay, we did quite fine without it :)

So there you guys go, VENICE! I could also tell you about the 24 euro fish that I couldn't eat without almost chocking on bones every bite... I could tell you about the drag shop with naked male mannequins and drag mannequins right there in the middle of Venice... I could tell you about my shrimp and egg sandwich... but instead I'll tell you about my NUTELLA-FILLED CROISSANT and my NUTELLA CREPE.


See you in Paris!